Los Arcos, Spain

We woke extra early today so we could be on the road by 7:15. We decided to eat breakfast in the first village. We were intent on getting many miles finished before it got too hot. It was going to be a 28 km. day. There were quite a few perigrinos on the road with us. We reached a cafe bar for breakfast after a couple of hours, but it was really a little mercado, and didn’t have much. I had a yogurt, coffee, and sweet roll. We hiked another hour or two then came to a pop up cafe, out of a van but there was shade so we had another coffee. We saw the Englishman there, and he was charming the cafe owners about how great the coffee was. Soon they were all posing for photos with the coffee maker. It was a long hike so we stopped a lot for water breaks, but not for long. At lunch, we found a park in Viana where there were many perigrinos sunning, resting, and picnicking so we set up our own picnic. We made our sandwiches with a tin of mussels from the Village Fair and some sheep cheese. Along came Barry and Chris to join us, and a young couple, Alli and Max. We had such a lovely time with them that we stayed longer. As we walked through Viana I saw how all the families were out for Sunday Brunch, it was sad to pass by and not join in. It was a long march to Logrono, stopping briefly at a sporting goods shop for bootlaces and socks. We got tired and achy but made it here by 5. We checked into our first Alberque because they gave us a private room. There’s a laundry here, so we’re waiting for our clothes to dry before we go find dinner. We have decided to take it slower tomorrow to give our bodies a break.

Los Arcos, Spain

We got another early start to beat the heat because we would walk about 13 1/2 miles. We are making friends now as we walk. We ran into an Englishman as we picked our way out of town, and he walked a while with us. It was his third time walking the Camino. We separated when I needed to stop for a break. We hiked a ways with a Swiss man, and Norm talked wine and beer with him as I trotted to keep up. We stopped twice for cold drinks, and once for lunch. I wore my boots again because my feet were healing but my feet were pretty sore by the end of the day. I think sandals win over boots. We arrived in Los Arcos by 4, and luckily found a double room but it was the last one in this pension. The town was crowded because they were anticipating an event, the running of the Bulls. Most of the shops were closed so getting supplies was tough, and no one was going to serve dinner until 8:30. We decided to hang around and see the bull run. They released them in the streets while all the tourists and town folk were safely behind wooden gates. We only saw about three bulls that were clearly outnumbered by the valiant runners in red and white. After a time, we tired of the spectacle so went looking for food. We found a bar serving tapas and made a dinner of that. We were joined by a merry pilgrim group who were also making the best of the night. We settled in early because the crowded streets were more of a battle than the Bulls were!

Mendigorria, Spain

We were on the trail by 7:30 joining a stream of pilgrims who all had the same idea as us. We met a couple, Karen and Steve, and hiked a way with them chatting. After a time, I discovered my water bladder leaked which ended the conversation as we had to stop to deal with it. Luckily it was warm enough already and a wet back wasn’t bad. We adjusted the wet bladder and kept on going. It was supposed to be an easy day, but while we were hiking it didn’t feel too easy. We passed a pair of cute young women on a grassy knoll who had their boots off and all their first aid gear out to treat each other’s blisters. “We have a foot hospital” they joked. We passed through several villages, seeing again the donkey with his pilgrim owner resting in a local park. Every time we passed a park in a village, it was occupied with clusters of resting pilgrims. We stopped at a children’s playground to prepare our usual picnic. This time we had apricots that we’d found at a mercado earlier. As we ate lunch, I saw pilgrim after pilgrim stop at the water fountain to fill their water bottles even though the sign said the water wasn’t potable! It seemed odd no one heeded the sign. I didn’t risk it, but filled my water supply at a market. Eventually we walked into Estella, and found Hostel Christina where we are staying. Norm’s in the bath, I’m in bed writing after my bath. I washed some of my clothes, and have them hung on the balcony. Today marks one week that we’ve been on the Camino. Tomorrow we will hike to Los Arcos. I think we’ll pass the wine fountain. After a rest, we went out to find dinner. On the street we discovered there was a country fair in progress with mariachi music, and a farmers market. We tried all the free samples, bought some tinned oysters for the road, and found some macaroons to munch. We ate dinner at one of the restaurants. It was salmon tonight, with salad and ice cream for dessert plus all the wine we could want.

Mendigorria, Spain

Yesterday I didn’t write at the end of the day because I was so tired! We climbed up Alto de Perdon. I was so proud that I made it to the summit, but then we were only halfway to our evening destination. We hiked about fifteen miles. The blisters are not gone, but I am managing them. It was our first sunny day so we heated up. We ate our picnic on top of the hill. We ate sandwiches made with sheep cheese and pate, also fresh cherries. We climbed with a flock of pilgrims. As I climbed, my thoughts turned naturally to those painful memories of times that needs forgiveness. It goes with blisters very well, we carry pain through life, letting it fester, even though it impedes our progress. I visualized letting go of those blistery thoughts. What would that feel like? Today we are up early, we’ll hike to Estella, easier route, but we want to start early to escape the heat. Our hotel included breakfast and dinner. Last night’s dinner included the usual green salad with tuna and asparagus, then a main course, pork for me, Norm had a seafood stew, then a pudding dessert. Breakfast was not impressive! Coffee, toast or croissant, orange juice, and ham and cheese. It was good to get an early start.

Pamplona, Spain

Mission Accomplished! We washed our clothes and dried them in an Eco-laundrymat. I found some new socks to try, and we got some more Euros. We bought more picnic supplies so ate lunch in a sunny plaza. We have lunch put away for tomorrow. Norm and I hobbled around town seeing Pamplona, its plazas, walking streets, and the bullfight arena. We had gelato cones at the corner. Now true to my word, I’m going to rest. My poor blistered feet are crying!

Pamplona, Spain

We got an early start in Zubiri, out the door by 6:30 to the corner cafe for cafe con leche, juice and chocolate croissants. Norm realized he’d lost his hat, and I was pleased I could recover it for him at the cafe! By a bit after seven, we’d hit the trail along with a lot of other pilgrims. On our way out of town, we saw a pilgrim camped with a donkey! It was cold and misty. I wore my merino wool shirt instead of my fleece because the fleece gets soaked and the wool wicks the water better. I kept the rain cover on my pack, adding my raincoat when needed. It was going to be our longest hike, about 15 miles. There were lots of windflowers to see as we hiked. In the next village, we had more coffee at a mercado, and picked up picnic supplies, cheese and fruit. There was one big hill, Eros, all the rest was simple up and down. We hiked until 3:30 stopping at one for lunch, the fruit and cheese sandwiches. Once we got to Pamplona, I had to stop again because my feet hurt, so I changed my socks. Sadly, I stopped too late because I developed three more blisters so I’m now limping around, and we have to take a break from walking. I went to the pharmacy to buy some compeed and ointment. We won’t be hiking tomorrow. We ate dinner at a cafeteria that was filled with women’s groups all chattering and enjoying tea and cakes. In Spain, they don’t eat dinner until 8 but we can’t easily wait, so we eat around 6:30. They had a good pilgrims special, green salad, French fries and pork and flan for me. They served us an entire bottle of red wine. You can get a three course meal, with wine for ten euros. It’s morning on Wednesday as I complete this. I’ve treated my blistered feet, and I’m resting as Norm takes care of business. Business today is taking care of laundry, paying for another night here, and changing money. When I’m less dispirited, I’ll go out for breakfast and to shop for socks that work better. It seems the blistering is partly due to damp feet, and also that I’m not in shape. When I hike again, I’ll wear my hiking sandals with socks. My business today is mainly to rest my feet.

Navarra, Spain

We got an early start today, but as we packed I could see the silent stream of pilgrims passing by out the window. Our rather grumpy hotelman made us breakfast at 7:30 which was just coffee, orange juice, and sweet rolls. We were off by eight. We passed the cafe which was full of pilgrims eating their breakfast. This time as we walked, it was a crowded trail. The weather was damp and misty. Soon my fleece was soaked, so I took it off, under that was a soaked shirt. I’m sweating that much! At points, we had drizzly rain, other times wind so I put on a raincoat over my wet shirt. Often we were slogging through mud, and when the trail went by farms, it was animal manure. Today was about 19 Kms. With some gradual changes in elevation. We stopped for bread at a panaderia in the first town we came to, but had to walk quite a ways to the next town where they had fruit. We also passed a coffee place where everyone was stopping for coffee. Of course, we stopped too. We ate lunch by the side of the trail just a little beyond a grave where a Japanese pilgrim had died. It had been made into a shrine. Our lunch was good brown bread, cheese, and I had yogurt but Norm had an apple. As the pilgrims passed by, we greeted each other “Buen Camino!” We made the last push to Zubiri, passing many pilgrims stopped here and there to eat picnic lunches. We were here by 2, and began to wander around looking for a place where we could stay and wash and dry clothes. Then an unexpected thing happened, and one of the hotels that were full took it upon themselves to call another hotel at the edge of town, and they sent out a car and hustled us out here, but it’s far from town, and we can’t wash clothes here. I tried to make the best of it and emptied my wet backpack, laying out the wet clothes on the heaters, and on the furniture, where ever they can dry. I did use the pack cover, but it only sort of worked. I discovered I have a blister, and my poles appear to be broken. Hmm. Norm is sleeping, it’s Pamplona next. I guess I need to go online and see if we can do better in Pamplona. We truly need to wash clothes because we’ve had two wet hiking days, and we’re getting pretty stinky! Norm got his nap, and I’ve made progress in drying clothes, spot cleaning, and handwashing some light items. Tomorrow I can start the day dry and clean. Only one pole is broken, but it’s still functional. I picked a couple of hotels on Booking, but Norm vetoed it. He likes winging it, even if it brings us unexpected surprises. So the heat works well in here, that means everything in my pack can be dried out. I’m going to start collecting plastic bags because the things in my pack that were bagged stayed dry. Also, what a blessing we are packed light so it’s not a lot of stuff to deal with. I am finding out there is a steep learning curve to becoming a pilgrim of the Camino.

Burguete, Spain

We left by 8:20, before the household woke. It was Sunday so none of the coffee shops were open in Valcarlos, so we left without coffee or breakfast. Luckily we had fruit. I wound up eating two bananas and a nectarine, and the nuts while we hiked. The scenery was beautiful, wooded and lots of windflowers. The weather was cool and foggy which later turned to light rain. I covered my pack, but I sweated too much so put off wearing a raincoat until I was wet through. We didn’t see any other pilgrims until we were almost to Roncevalles. In Roncevalles, all the accomodations seemed to be booked, so we just had coffee, ate sandwiches that we made ourselves, then walked on to Burguete. We wound up in a hotel in Burguete which was fine for me, because I want a little more privacy at this time in the journey. We had to wait until 7 to eat dinner because that’s the custom here. We went with the Pilgrim special again which tends to be repetitive, but it was good and hearty. The bakeries and shops are all closed because it’s Sunday. We walked around town until we figured out where the Camino will take us tomorrow. Hopefully, we’ll hike past a market so we can stock up on lunch materials. Our hotel will serve breakfast at 7:30 am.

Valcarlos, Spain

We started a little late, around 9:30 am because we stayed and chatted a little with our hosts in Saint Jean Pied de Port. We got Tim talking about his old house which was historic, and how he had restored it. It had once been a brothel! So we left Saint Jean PdP around 10 with our loaded packs and a lunch of bread, cheese, and apples. The Camino was easy to navigate because we had a good map, and there were scallop markers to show the way. I was happy for my comfortable pack, my super collapsible poles, and the nifty water bladders that Kaily and Kadin gave us. The walking at times seemed hard because we aren’t in shape but I know it will get easier. I am staying focused on each step, on enjoying the journey, not worrying about the destination. We went the valley route because it has less elevation changes and it’s more rolling hills. We hiked for some time alongside the stream that marks the border between France and Spain. We got a little lost toward the end of our hike because we missed a turn, but we backtracked and found our way here. We didn’t run into any Perigrinos because we left so late, and took a route less traveled so I was disappointed in that respect. Now we are staying with a lovely Spanish couple who had a signboard out advertising rooms. Our bedroom is all lacy and frilly, which contrasts awkwardly with our gear. I’m enjoying conversations with our house mother in Spanish. Norm has pointed out to me that the experience we are having is perfect for us, because we are enjoying the conversation and company of Spaniards, and why else come to Spain! Norm promises that tomorrow we will get an earlier start.

Saint Jean Pied de Port, France

We made a short list of things to do before we hiked the Camino, and the list is now complete. We mailed our luggage to Burgos using general delivery. We organized our packs, I mended and washed my clothes. It cost us each 52 euros to mail ahead our rolling bags. We visited the Pilgrim office for maps and advice about the way to Roncevalles. I bought a hat, which wasn’t on the list. Norm bought a book of maps and mailed postcards to Jason and Megan. We walked around the Citadel, and around the town seeing all there is to see. I can say for certain we are ready now. We will begin tomorrow on the valley route, avoiding Napoleon’s Route because the weather forecast is for rain.