Palas de Rei, Spain

Hiking into Portomarin was a long and lovely hike in the rain with many muddy stretches. We ran into Texas Dave at our last coffee break. He was hanging in there. We wondered how he could keep up with us since he’s a slow hiker, but he starts each day an hour or more earlier than us, and ends an hour or so later. We also hiked into Portomarin with Ursula who we didn’t expect to see again as she is a quick hiker and we separated in Leon. On our day going to Portomarin we had the pleasure of meeting a father and daughter from Nashville and Seattle, Rob and Kate who were hiking together. Kate was enjoying some special time with her father. The trail is very crowded now, often we come across large groups moving along together. Our hotel, Villajardin, in Portomarin was one of the nicest, and we appreciated the special touches in the room, such as strong wifi, heat that worked, a heated towel rack that could dry socks, a comfortable double bed, and space to stretch. We also enjoyed a good dinner there, and complimentary breakfast. We saw little of the town because it started to rain hard and we stayed in for the night. We hiked out of Portomarin today after changing money heading up a steady slope to Palas de Rei. Again we hiked with a big crowd of pilgrims, some in groups and some pairs and many solo. As we slogged through mud and clammy weather, Norm kept slowing down and I had to stop many times to wait for him. By the time we made it to our first coffee bar, he had slowed to a creep. He’d developed a deep cough these last few days, due to the damp weather and his compromised health was catching up to him. We were in Gastar at a Pilgrim’s rest stop and it was around 11. We’d hiked for three hours but made poor time due to our slow pace. I noticed a taxi ad on the wall, and we agreed to end our hike and I called the cab. He arrived very quickly as I had told him my husband was ill, but didn’t explain much more. Our phone doesn’t work so well since its skype over wifi, and my Spanish is accented so we do well to communicate. I wondered if we had a police escort because a police car was ahead of us the whole way, or was I just imagining. We were twelve miles to our destination but the way there was an endless parade of bedraggled hikers picking their way through rain and mud. Norm was quiet and I felt worried and disappointed in the day’s outcome. At Hotel Plaza they were surprised to see us so soon. We had to wait while they readied our room. Norm slept the afternoon away. We had dinner around the corner at a friendly Alberque. We reserved our next hotel – that’s Sunday because we reserve two days in advance. Our plan tomorrow is for me to hike alone, and Norm will go by taxi with our bags to our next hotel. It’s a shorter hike and tomorrow is only light rain. I’m hoping he can kick this bug. I’m fine enough to walk, but sad Norm can’t join me. Today’s hotel is Spartan, with twin beds, little room, and weak wifi.