Belorado, Spain

We left again at first light so watched the sun rise as we hiked. The land is flattening out and has less variation but still is filled with flowers. When we start on this early schedule, we don’t have breakfast until we reach the first big town. This time we got to our first town before any coffee bar was open. I wound up having instant coffee at a friendly Alberque, but when the bar opened we had a real breakfast. As we hiked, an older Spanish speaking woman slipped and fell on the trail in the gravel. Norm helped out as we were first on the scene. Another gentleman ran off to get ice, and someone who identified himself as a therapist began to examine her. We left at that point thinking she was in good hands. Later in the day, we noticed two perigrinos who looked indigenous were picking nettle by the side of the road. I wondered what culinary or medicinal use the herbs were, then the man removed his shirt, and his wife began to beat him with the nettles leaving large welts! We arrived here shortly after lunch and easily found a lovely Casa Rural Pension. We have an attic room. We napped, bathed, had a pitcher of sangria, and did our few errands. We had a lovely dinner and are now ready to call it a night. We’ve treated our feet, and soon will be in bed.

Belorado, Spain

Yesterday I was too tired to write, so I’ll review today our journey from Najera to Santo Domingo, which is famous for the miracle of the rooster. In the rooster tale, it happened in the days of the Middle Ages that a family with a young attractive son arrived in town. A local girl flirted with the youth, but he scorned her. So she retaliated by accusing him of theft. the boy was hung, but the parents had strong faith in their son’s innocence. They went to the father to fight for their boy’s life. The father laughed and said your son is as dead as the chicken on my plate. At that, the chicken he was eating, sat up and crowed. The parents then happily discovered their son was also alive, and he was released. We walked most of this day in fog, making good time. What went well was that we started at 5:30 AM so finished around lunchtime. When we arrived, we asked around for a private room, and we were brought to the convent where Norm successfully bargained with the sister for a room there. We had two narrow single beds but with a view of the cathedral. We could hear the sisters chanting their prayers at vespers, and the sound of church bells ringing.

Nájera, Spain

After a lovely breakfast at our pension with espresso, fresh juice, fruit and rolls, we began our trek at 8:30. We only walked another 10 miles, but a lot of up. We arrived here at 2:30, after stopping for our usual picnic lunch, but this time sardine and cheese sandwiches. We also had a stop at a Refrescos Truck to break up the hike. Norm went crazy photographing the wild flowers today, while I marveled at the absence of pain in my feet. Finally those blisters are healing. I’ve been using Vaseline and some nice German hiking socks with padded heels and balls to manage my blisters. We got here early enough to score a private room at the Alberque. We took a nap, then shopped for bread and fruit. We had paella at a cafe on the river. We walked around just a bit, seeing the red cliffs above the city until my feet screamed enough!

Navarrete, Spain and Canary Islands

Yesterday we hiked only a short 8 km distance to make it here. We hiked through a giant park outside of Logrono that went by a lake. The park was full of Spaniards hiking, jogging, and enjoying the sun. We arrived here by two, and easily found the Perigrinando Pension run by Roberto from Venezuela where we are staying. We found lunch, cannoli, at a neighborhood bar where we passed the afternoon with wine and conversation with the other pilgrims. After lunch, we rested, then went out and had a late dinner at an outdoor restaurant with the wind blowing so hard we held onto our wine glasses. We joined Barry and Chris who are from Santa Cruz, for dinner. I had a salad, and Norm had tapas. We’ll be eating breakfast here, then getting on the road by 8:30. Norm is getting concerned about the distance ahead, and how to schedule in a trip to Morrocco.

Los Arcos, Spain

We woke extra early today so we could be on the road by 7:15. We decided to eat breakfast in the first village. We were intent on getting many miles finished before it got too hot. It was going to be a 28 km. day. There were quite a few perigrinos on the road with us. We reached a cafe bar for breakfast after a couple of hours, but it was really a little mercado, and didn’t have much. I had a yogurt, coffee, and sweet roll. We hiked another hour or two then came to a pop up cafe, out of a van but there was shade so we had another coffee. We saw the Englishman there, and he was charming the cafe owners about how great the coffee was. Soon they were all posing for photos with the coffee maker. It was a long hike so we stopped a lot for water breaks, but not for long. At lunch, we found a park in Viana where there were many perigrinos sunning, resting, and picnicking so we set up our own picnic. We made our sandwiches with a tin of mussels from the Village Fair and some sheep cheese. Along came Barry and Chris to join us, and a young couple, Alli and Max. We had such a lovely time with them that we stayed longer. As we walked through Viana I saw how all the families were out for Sunday Brunch, it was sad to pass by and not join in. It was a long march to Logrono, stopping briefly at a sporting goods shop for bootlaces and socks. We got tired and achy but made it here by 5. We checked into our first Alberque because they gave us a private room. There’s a laundry here, so we’re waiting for our clothes to dry before we go find dinner. We have decided to take it slower tomorrow to give our bodies a break.

Los Arcos, Spain

We got another early start to beat the heat because we would walk about 13 1/2 miles. We are making friends now as we walk. We ran into an Englishman as we picked our way out of town, and he walked a while with us. It was his third time walking the Camino. We separated when I needed to stop for a break. We hiked a ways with a Swiss man, and Norm talked wine and beer with him as I trotted to keep up. We stopped twice for cold drinks, and once for lunch. I wore my boots again because my feet were healing but my feet were pretty sore by the end of the day. I think sandals win over boots. We arrived in Los Arcos by 4, and luckily found a double room but it was the last one in this pension. The town was crowded because they were anticipating an event, the running of the Bulls. Most of the shops were closed so getting supplies was tough, and no one was going to serve dinner until 8:30. We decided to hang around and see the bull run. They released them in the streets while all the tourists and town folk were safely behind wooden gates. We only saw about three bulls that were clearly outnumbered by the valiant runners in red and white. After a time, we tired of the spectacle so went looking for food. We found a bar serving tapas and made a dinner of that. We were joined by a merry pilgrim group who were also making the best of the night. We settled in early because the crowded streets were more of a battle than the Bulls were!

Mendigorria, Spain

We were on the trail by 7:30 joining a stream of pilgrims who all had the same idea as us. We met a couple, Karen and Steve, and hiked a way with them chatting. After a time, I discovered my water bladder leaked which ended the conversation as we had to stop to deal with it. Luckily it was warm enough already and a wet back wasn’t bad. We adjusted the wet bladder and kept on going. It was supposed to be an easy day, but while we were hiking it didn’t feel too easy. We passed a pair of cute young women on a grassy knoll who had their boots off and all their first aid gear out to treat each other’s blisters. “We have a foot hospital” they joked. We passed through several villages, seeing again the donkey with his pilgrim owner resting in a local park. Every time we passed a park in a village, it was occupied with clusters of resting pilgrims. We stopped at a children’s playground to prepare our usual picnic. This time we had apricots that we’d found at a mercado earlier. As we ate lunch, I saw pilgrim after pilgrim stop at the water fountain to fill their water bottles even though the sign said the water wasn’t potable! It seemed odd no one heeded the sign. I didn’t risk it, but filled my water supply at a market. Eventually we walked into Estella, and found Hostel Christina where we are staying. Norm’s in the bath, I’m in bed writing after my bath. I washed some of my clothes, and have them hung on the balcony. Today marks one week that we’ve been on the Camino. Tomorrow we will hike to Los Arcos. I think we’ll pass the wine fountain. After a rest, we went out to find dinner. On the street we discovered there was a country fair in progress with mariachi music, and a farmers market. We tried all the free samples, bought some tinned oysters for the road, and found some macaroons to munch. We ate dinner at one of the restaurants. It was salmon tonight, with salad and ice cream for dessert plus all the wine we could want.

Mendigorria, Spain

Yesterday I didn’t write at the end of the day because I was so tired! We climbed up Alto de Perdon. I was so proud that I made it to the summit, but then we were only halfway to our evening destination. We hiked about fifteen miles. The blisters are not gone, but I am managing them. It was our first sunny day so we heated up. We ate our picnic on top of the hill. We ate sandwiches made with sheep cheese and pate, also fresh cherries. We climbed with a flock of pilgrims. As I climbed, my thoughts turned naturally to those painful memories of times that needs forgiveness. It goes with blisters very well, we carry pain through life, letting it fester, even though it impedes our progress. I visualized letting go of those blistery thoughts. What would that feel like? Today we are up early, we’ll hike to Estella, easier route, but we want to start early to escape the heat. Our hotel included breakfast and dinner. Last night’s dinner included the usual green salad with tuna and asparagus, then a main course, pork for me, Norm had a seafood stew, then a pudding dessert. Breakfast was not impressive! Coffee, toast or croissant, orange juice, and ham and cheese. It was good to get an early start.

Pamplona, Spain

Mission Accomplished! We washed our clothes and dried them in an Eco-laundrymat. I found some new socks to try, and we got some more Euros. We bought more picnic supplies so ate lunch in a sunny plaza. We have lunch put away for tomorrow. Norm and I hobbled around town seeing Pamplona, its plazas, walking streets, and the bullfight arena. We had gelato cones at the corner. Now true to my word, I’m going to rest. My poor blistered feet are crying!

Pamplona, Spain

We got an early start in Zubiri, out the door by 6:30 to the corner cafe for cafe con leche, juice and chocolate croissants. Norm realized he’d lost his hat, and I was pleased I could recover it for him at the cafe! By a bit after seven, we’d hit the trail along with a lot of other pilgrims. On our way out of town, we saw a pilgrim camped with a donkey! It was cold and misty. I wore my merino wool shirt instead of my fleece because the fleece gets soaked and the wool wicks the water better. I kept the rain cover on my pack, adding my raincoat when needed. It was going to be our longest hike, about 15 miles. There were lots of windflowers to see as we hiked. In the next village, we had more coffee at a mercado, and picked up picnic supplies, cheese and fruit. There was one big hill, Eros, all the rest was simple up and down. We hiked until 3:30 stopping at one for lunch, the fruit and cheese sandwiches. Once we got to Pamplona, I had to stop again because my feet hurt, so I changed my socks. Sadly, I stopped too late because I developed three more blisters so I’m now limping around, and we have to take a break from walking. I went to the pharmacy to buy some compeed and ointment. We won’t be hiking tomorrow. We ate dinner at a cafeteria that was filled with women’s groups all chattering and enjoying tea and cakes. In Spain, they don’t eat dinner until 8 but we can’t easily wait, so we eat around 6:30. They had a good pilgrims special, green salad, French fries and pork and flan for me. They served us an entire bottle of red wine. You can get a three course meal, with wine for ten euros. It’s morning on Wednesday as I complete this. I’ve treated my blistered feet, and I’m resting as Norm takes care of business. Business today is taking care of laundry, paying for another night here, and changing money. When I’m less dispirited, I’ll go out for breakfast and to shop for socks that work better. It seems the blistering is partly due to damp feet, and also that I’m not in shape. When I hike again, I’ll wear my hiking sandals with socks. My business today is mainly to rest my feet.